Grande Traversata della Valsesia - Siti di arrampicata
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Comuni | Alagna Valsesia |
Description
The Great Valsesia Crossing (GTV) is a path on the border of Valsesia divided into 11 legs that can be covered singularly or one after the other, for a total of 113 km.The route has been outlined as part of an initiative financed by the PSR (Rural Development Plan) 2014-2020, for the maintenance, refurbishment and communication operations concerning the mule tracks and historical paths traced in the past centuries. They used to link all the different valleys forming that area as well as those in the neighbouring territories (Sessera Valley and Cervo Valley, Aosta Valley - Lys Valley, Anzasca Valley and Strona Valley).
Besides the maintenance and implementation of the safety measures for the GTV, the Authority has followed the design and redevelopment of some climbing sites in the territory of Alagna (Bouldering Area Alpe Pile-Casera Lunga, Fun’d’Scotte cliff, Massi di Sant'Antonio, Alpe Blatte cliff) and Piode (Falesia delle Quare), as well as the modernisation and extraordinary maintenance of Refuge Massero (Carcoforo) and Refuge Carestia in Vogna Valley (Riva Valdobbia).
Itinerari collegati
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Comuni | Alagna Valsesia |
Description
Type: cliff Altitude: 1385m Exposure: EastSome of the boulders present in S. Antonio, not far from the falesia dei finanzieri (cliff of the revenue officers) “Fun’d’Scotte”, have been chosen for sport climbing.
On the biggest boulder, called "Laboratorio" (Laboratory) and located just behind the little votive chapel, you can find the old 8mm bolt tracks, probably dating back to the ‘90s.
The stone, a solid and compact block of grey granite, had no holds; that is why it was impossible to create entirely natural itineraries. Some tracks were modified, without making too many changes and by paying particular attention to the logical and aesthetic aspects of the movements.
The place is quite shaded and gets some sunshine in the morning; for this reason, summer is the best period for climbing here. All the tracks are very physical and quite demanding.
During the last years some other surrounding boulders have been targeted, such as for example the "Sasso Picnic", on the right side of the road.
The climb on slab is technical; there is also a nice crack that has been freely traversed in the past. This small cliff is a good alternative (or a good warm-up) to the "Laboratorio", which is more demanding.
If you are looking for higher levels of difficulty, just cross the road and reach the "Masso dei Cadaveri" (Boulder of dead bodies).
Both areas can be climbed from May to September and are exposed to the sun in the morning.
Access
As for the Fun'd'Scotte cliff, reach and pass the town of Alagna, park in the large square in Wold and keep on walking until you reach the ford on the right. Cross it and continue on the dirt road on the left as far as a second ford, leading back to the paved road. Keep on walking until you reach the little church of Saint Anthony. Fifty metres before it, on the right you will find the "Sasso Picnic" and on the left a track leading to the "Masso dei Cadaveri".
To reach the "Laboratorio", follow the route starting just next to the little church, from where you can see the cliff. It is a 20-minute walk from the parking lot. Attention: at the second bridge, on the right, there is a new path indicating the “Refuge Pastore", which leads to the little chapel of Saint Anthony without following the paved road.
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Comuni | Alagna Valsesia |
Description
MASSI ALPE PILE (Alpe Pile boulders) – REFUGE PASTOREType: bouldering Altitude: 1575m Exposure: East
A good number of boulders fill the fields crossed by the path that runs from the “Refuge Pastore" to Alpe Bors, as well as to other hiking destinations and Alpine refuges.
Probably these boulders were already targeted during the ‘80s, as there are some bolts placed on the highest rocks, but they were used for sport climbing only in 2004. In the summer of that year, a group of locals (led by Davide Borelli) organised several exploratory trips. In that period and in the following years, thanks to the work and collaboration of "Gabbi" Nicolini, Giorgio Borelli, Roberto "Purtu" Marcon, Saretta Savoini, Marco Dragone, and Paride Chiovini, many (often easy) tracks were created; they are scattered over twenty boulders of different heights. The climb is thus varied and instructive, ideal for the first bouldering experiences: friction slabs, well-equipped vertical walls, some tiny crimps and some short overhangs are an excellent playground for everybody.
Follow the main road no. 299 of Valsesia towards Alagna; pass the town, continue up to Wold, where you can leave the car in the well-indicated and large parking lot. Take the shuttle (in service in summer, from June to August) leading to the Piazzale delle Acque Bianche and follow the path no. 6 that leads to the "Refuge Pastore" in fifteen minutes. Cross the wooden bridge on the Sesia river; before the refuge, follow the road on the right leading to Alpe Bors and the Refuge “Crespi-Calderini". After a short walk, you can see the first rocks, stretching up to the “Alpe Casera Lunga" fields. They can be reached by a five-minute walk.
You can arrive at Alpe Pile also through a path in about one hour. From the large square in Wold, follow the paved road until you reach a bridge on the right. Cross it and follow the clear indications and the comfortable path leading to the Refuge Pastore passing through S. Antonio and the woods. This is the only way to reach the boulders when the shuttle service is not working.
Notes
Attention: as the grounds housing the boulders are used as mountain pastures, try to be careful and clean. Do not disturb the animals grazing and do not leave any kind of waste. As it happened in the past, due to heavy winter snowfalls, some avalanches can occur in summer, dragging away debris and slightly soiling the rocks. Do not be afraid of bringing a brush to clean the passages before starting. This will help keep the place clean also for the future.
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Comuni | Alagna Valsesia |
Description
Falesia delle Blatte (Blatte cliff)Plunged into the High Valsesia Natural Park, near the path leading to the Refuge Barba Ferrero, there are some walls made of compact gneiss. During the autumn of 2018, the Alpine guides of the Mountaineering school equipped some of these walls and created different tracks with an easy level of difficulty.
The rock, rich in crimps, holes and cracks as well as concretions in some parts, requires a technical climb often on a sustained slab. The length of the pitches ranges from 12 to 20 metres and the nailing is excellent, with 10mm bolts and belay stations with chain and carabiner made of stainless steel. The distance of the safety devices is not too long ensuring an easy progression for beginners.
The climb is ideal in summer and in autumn and the exposition of the wall is South-East. The base is very comfortable, thus ideal for children too.
Access:
Reach the town of Alagna Valsesia and park the car in the large parking lot in Wold. From here you can continue on foot or by shuttles (only in summer) up to the end of the road (Piazzale dell’Acqua Bianca). Follow the path no. 7 leading to the Refuge Barba Ferrero; after approx. 20 minutes you reach the mountain pasture Alpeggio delle Blatte. 150 metres after the last house on the right side of the path you will find the wall.
Routes:
1. no name 15m
2. no name 15m
3. no name 16m
4. no name 18m
5. no name 20m
6. no name 20m
7. no name 20m
7bis. no name 20m
8. no name 18m
9. no name 14m
10. no name 12m
11. no name 12m
12. no name 20m
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Comuni | Alagna Valsesia |
Description
Fun’ d’ Scotte cliffFun’ d’ Scotte is a historic and impressive wall of compact gneiss, once a practice wall for local guides; in the early 1980s the face was cleaned up and equipped in a more sporting way.
The difficulty level of the routes settles around 6th-6c and climbing is often very technical on a little leaning or vertical walls, with good crimps for the fingers. However, there are also easy routes, useful for those who want to approach climbing in complete tranquility: in the left part "grade 5c-6a reigns supreme", while in the right one some beautiful and easy slabs satisfy the most demanding beginner, supported by others more difficult. The central part, consisting of a beautiful 35-meter pillar, is reserved for mid-level climbers, with good motor skills. Three hard and overhanging roads complete the climbing wall and guarantee a beautiful playing field even for the most trained climbers.
The west exposure makes the wall sunny starting from the early afternoon and, considering the altitude (1200m) it is advisable to access the area from May to September
Access
Reach and pass the town of Alagna, park in the large square in Wold and keep on walking until you reach the ford over the Sesia. Cross it and continue on the path on the left
As far as the marked track that leads to the climbing site.
About 20 minutes walk from the parking lot.
Description
A newly created cliff that has been positively welcomed by many Valsesia and foreign climbers. Falesia delle Quare (Quare cliff) is located not far from the hamlet of the same name, on the road leading to Rassa, next to the carriageway. However, it is sheltered by the trees and pleasantly shaded, making it the perfect place to visit in spring and summer.In 2009 Alberto Zucchetti and Alberto Zanada cleaned and equipped the wall, creating about twenty itineraries, perfectly fitted with 10mm stainless steel anchor bolts and belay stations provided with carabiners. Climbing occurs mainly on vertical and overhanging walls, where the size of the holds is always good (flakes, crimps and some cracks), ensuring an athletic progression also on the easiest routes.
The cliff is currently developing to the left, where new pitches are being created. The names and grades of the routes are shown at their foot.
Access
From Varallo towards Alagna on the main road SS 299.
Pass the town of Piode, turn left onto the bridge to Rassa; park your car in the areas near the first houses in the hamlet of Quare and continue along the paved road for a few hundred metres. After a little church, not far from a farm, take a trail on the right leading quickly to the foot of the wall. It is a 5-minute walk from the place where you leave your car.
1 MOLA MIA 6c 15m Physical overhang with good holds
2 SAURIA 7a+ 15m A nice and pleasant climb
3 LEDI QUARE 6a+ 15m Initial boulder, then an easy slab
4 IL DIEDRO NON VALE 6b+ 15m If you follow the slab it is a nice climb
5 DE FIRST 5c 15m Nice and easy warm-up slab
6 ARBREMAGIC 6b+ 20m The climb follows a pleasant buttress
7 QUARESIMA 6c 20m Final athletic crack, not ordinary
8 QUARESTING 7b 20m Hard finger movement
9 HOWOWART 6a+ 25m Athletic big flakes
10 ANNACQUARE 6a+ 25m Short initial “finger lock”, then good holds
11 GIROLAMO 6b 25m Crimp rock wall and final roof
12 AC-QUARE-LLO 6b 25m Vertical wall with two roofs
13 QUARE 6a+ 25m Initial slab and overhang with good holds
14 QUO 6a+ 20m Like the previous one
15 QUI 6a+ 20m Like the previous one
16 CIOCCOBLOCCO 6a 20m Initial technical slab; athletic upper part
17 QUA-REMARE 6a+ 20m Slight overhang with single move, far from being ordinary
18 MEI PETE’ CHE PATI’ 7a+ 18m Finger little overhang
19 ZAZA’ 6b 20m Initial single move and then on an easy slab
20 BEA 5c 20m Slab and dihedral
21 PRUSCITI 6c+ 20m Athletic movements on a spur and overhang
22 PRUSCITI (VARIANTE) 6c+ 20m After the first section of the previous route, continue on the overhang with crimps on the right
23 STROMBOLICCHIO 6b 20m Athletic climb with crimps and flakes, with an unexpected ending